Kato, the modern Taiwanese restaurant from Jon Yao, is best known for a high-value tasting menu driven by seasonality and creativity. His menu changes constantly, so while we’d highly recommend several dishes, they may not appear on your table. Given that, consider Kato’s beef noodle soup night, which takes over the tiny strip mall space one Wednesday per month and features Taiwanese comfort food. Beef noodle soup, known as niu rou mian in Taiwan, is especially good under Yao’s watch. He simmers a broth for 5-7 hours using beef shin bones, slices of shank, and sticky, collagen-rich tendon. The aromatic, well-balanced broth with a beautiful finishing kick incorporates ingredients like ginger, shallots, fermented broad beans, dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, clove, star anise, cinnamon, coriander, fennel seed, chile de arbol, and Szechuan pepper. Flat Sun noodles add satisfying chew, and scallions and cilantro are bright, complementary garnishes.